Breakfast of Champions 4

Revelry Kitchen starts your day off right.

For being the most important meal of the day, breakfast sure does get overlooked. Whether you’re getting yourself out the door or the kids ready for school (or both), those morning hours can be the most stressed out, hectic and crowded ones all day. Which is why going out for breakfast doesn’t get the same sort of fanfare as going out for dinner, or even lunch.

Revelry Kitchen, which opened last summer in west Highland, is giving breakfast its due. This is a neighborhood spot that’s welcoming to all; it’s not uncommon to see every generation represented in the sunny dining room. It’s the kind of place that every community corner should have but doesn’t – a comfortable spot at which to eat well-prepared, creative dishes.

Every time I’m at Revelry I’m reminded that breakfast is my favorite meal to go out for, but rarely do. Helmed by chef Enrique Socarras (formerly of Cuba Cuba), the menu includes a nice blend of sweet and savory, with the addictive pumpkin cinnamon rolls being my favorite sweet. Not too heavy on the pumpkin flavor, the rolls are topped with crunchy Tender Belly bacon, pecans and a cream cheese frosting you’ll want to lick off the plate.

Other sweets include a rotating selection of muffins (banana Nutella is popular), churro doughnuts and bacon chocolate chip pancakes. The egg-based dishes are great as well, especially the Northside Rancheros with its richly flavored chile rojo. The sauce coats two eggs (try them over easy), fresh corn tortillas, refritos and cheese.

And it’s not all breakfast foods, either. Revelry, which stays open until 3 p.m., also has a robust lunch selection. There are plenty of salads, a heavy Cubano sandwich that shows off Socarras’s Cuban heritage and the obligatory burger.

Straddling the line between breakfast and lunch is the excellent fried chicken and waffles plate. The waffles aren’t the sugar bombs you’re used to, and the crispy chicken is especially good with the accompanying ham gravy.

Wash it all down with a cocktail – Revelry has a full bar to make your day that much better. The mimosa and bloody Mary give generous pours for their $4 and $5 price tags, or get a bigger buzz with the Lemon Poppy, made with Tru lemon vodka, Grand Poppy liqueur and Colorado Tonix.

The atmosphere and food are worth the visit, but what might be most impressive about Revelry is the pricing. In a city where $14 cocktails and $20 breakfasts are becoming commonplace, nearly everything on the menu is in the $10-12 range, and drinks top out at $8. It’s not trying to be a destination restaurant so much as an everyday eatery, and prices are in line with that philosophy.

With concept and upscale restaurants opening at breakneck speed in Denver, it’s a breath of fresh air to see an unfussy eatery that’s just about the food and community it serves. I can’t think of a better way to start your day.